A Supply Chain in Crisis: Finding New Ways to Share Risk

The outdoor industry’s chances of emerging stronger than ever from the economic crisis are good if brands, manufacturers, dealers and their bankers can agree in coming months how to reapportion risk in a much faster moving, but slower growing economy.

Consensus is building among outdoor brands that they need to move production and wholesale deliveries closer to need. That will involve moving toward a fashion merchandising model of smaller, more frequent production runs. The goal is less inventory risk, less work in progress and less reliance on credit.

Retailers are already moving in this direction, according to consultants, retailers and industry suppliers.

“We’ve seen huge increases in the reorder side of the business,” said Peter O’Neil, VP of sales and marketing for CenterStone Technologies, which provides a B2B platform that allows reps and dealers to view brand’s inventories and place orders 24/7. “Retailers are loving the fact that they can chase inventory and order when they have one left on the rack. They no longer have to have ten on the rack and wait for them sell. That's driving our business.”

The onus appears to be on brands, their manufacturers and suppliers, who will need to negotiate new terms to ensure a smooth transition. Specifically, brands will have to negotiate with manufacturers and suppliers, such as fabric mills, to lower their minimum product runs or they will have to start paying and absorbing surcharges. That’s something that is also starting to happen with more frequency, according to sourcing experts.

Currently, brands that can’t meet minimum order requirements are assessed surcharges. Until now, brands dealt with the minimums by pressuring their dealers to place larger and larger preseason orders and then liquidating any unsold product at the end of season. But retailers began trimming back preseason orders in early 2008 and have since been canceling orders at an unprecedented rate. Traditional liquidation channels, meanwhile, are having difficulty moving surplus goods at traditional margins because department and chain stores are already selling so much apparel and footwear at up to 70% off retail.

Outdoor brands that can’t convince suppliers to reduce minimums will need to pay surcharges or find more willing suppliers willing to handle smaller runs. The latter has also begun to occur.

Longer term, some experts foresee a shift to a more regional production platform with smaller run/quick turn sportswear production for the North American market moving closer to home.

Horny Toad CEO Gordon Seabury said Zara, a vertically integrated global fashion brand owned by Spanish apparel giant Inditex, provides a glimpse of the future. On average, Zara can deliver goods to its European stores within 24 hours of receiving an order. Orders from America and Asia are fulfilled within 48 hours. The company’s designers receive input directly from buyers at more than 500 stores. Highly automated logistics centers ship product twice a week and each delivery includes new items so that stores are constantly refreshing their offer, according to Inditex’s annual report. In 2006, the company’s EBITDA rose 20% to 2.2 billion, or 22.8 percent of sales.

Despite the clamor from retailers for more domestic production, the bulk of manufacturing is likely to remain in Asia, and particularly China. Asian factories have simply gotten too good at what they do and provide too much value for the dollar, sourcing experts say. It's no longer just the labor differential but the work ethic and willingness to go the extra mile that is separating them from U.S. mills, contractors say.

After all, if Chinese factories can serve the quick turn-around times demanded by the ready-to-wear and fashion industries, they can surely meet the needs of the outdoor industry, experts say.

Horny Toad’s Lizard Lounge retail store in Portland is already moving toward this model. To keep things fresh, the store takes deliveries six times a year and remerchandizes every two weeks. It now turns inventory every six weeks, said Seabury.

“The whole industry is built on the old equipment model – stack it to the ceiling and sell it and then mark down whatever does not sell,” said Seabury. “There is tons of inventory stashed in the back tying up working capital. We need to increase frequency of replenishment to drive traffic through the stores. You are still developing product for two major seasons, but you are staging production and deliveries – phasing it to reduce duration of the cash float.”

Lizard Lounge has taught Horny Toad that in this economy more than ever, edgier more innovative product, rather than core product, is what drives retail traffic and sales. “Even if people are spending less,” he said, “you have to give them a reason to spend. “